Turkey

From January 1^st to the 8th we’ve been to Turkey. What in the beginning was planned as a lazy holiday turned at the latest moment in a motor holiday. So change of plans meant change of clothes etc. What to do? Take our own helmet ? What protective clothing should we take with us and so on.

Well, after celebrating the start of a new year with the neighbours, we went to bed for a short sleep. We had to go to Germany because Ilke had made the travel arrangements with a German tour operator (Berge und Meer). Cheap and convenient. We got a return ticket from any railwaystation in Germany to Düsseldorf Airport. Not only is Düsseldorf nearer to us than Amsterdam Schiphol , but now we didn’t have to pay for a train ticket or parking space.

So, driving to Emmerich, catching the train and off we went. It took a little over an hour to the airport, where we had to catch a train shuttle. And after a coffee we then went to the check-in. Passport control and stuff, a bit more waiting at the terminal and off to Antalya.

From there with a free shuttle bus to Alanya (about 104km from Antalya to the east) and about two o’clock we were at our destination. The rest of the day went obviously in checking in, resting and “reconnaissance”.

Monday - January 2^nd – In the morning we were invited to a welcome speech, in which we were told what the week would bring. But before going there Ilke went to the motor hiring agent in the lobby of the hotel. She was determined to get a discount. So for €400 she rented two motorbikes for the week (from Martin-Tuerkay) , everything included except the petrol of course.

Well after the speech and having told that we weren’t going on a two day trip with them, we checked the two bikes. Ilke got a Honda 200 and I got a Honda Falcon 400. Both off-road bikes. The men told us how to handle the bikes, but that obviously wasn’t necessary. We went back to the room and plotted a route.

It was a nice drive, but as we found out both the maps we had and the traffic signs are not of the standard we are used to. So after a couple of hours we weren’t even close to where we wanted to go. The last bit went over a very winding road and I said to myself that the city we were heading at, was either near or I would turn back. (We were told that sun under would be at about 5.15 pm. And here the sun would be behind the mountains earlier). So, when I saw a sign “ 20 km” , I decided to turn back. Which was a good thing, because the way back turned out far more longer than we had expected and so it was already dusk before we got back.

In the evening there was a diner buffet and after that, it was back to the room and before we new it we were asleep.

Tuesday – January 3^rd 2006 – Because we had to check out of our room today (the others went to Pamukkele for two days) we decide to go to Anamur, which is about 175km to the east. Ilke had found in her travel guide that there was a nice castle, remembering the crusaders. And while I last week had viewed “Kingdom of Heaven”, I was game.

The first part to Alanya (30km) was uneventful. To Alanya it is still tourist territory. But after Alanya the trip got more interesting. Narrower roads, more scenery and especially less touristy. Halfway we drank a cup of coffee at a local “whatever”. There were no other people than the owners and everything was made out for us. A place in the sun and a friendly smile. And where a cappuccino in Germany had cost €2 a cup, here we had coffee for more than half the price.

The last part of the journey was really beautiful, with lots of curves and a few hairpins. And all the time a wonderful view at the Mediterranean Sea. It somehow reminded us of Corsica. Which wasn’t that surprising of course. Because the vegetation is basically the same.

We arrived at a nice time at the hotel Ilke had phoned this morning before we checked out, because our tour guide had told us very few hotels would be open in Alanya (tourist territory) and we were way out in the “wilderness” . So after we had a cup of coffee (compliments of the hotel !!!) we went to see the castle. Very, very nice ! We had a long walk over the wall and climbed some towers. Unfortunately a man came toward us and tried to smooth us into visiting all kinds of things. I had no taste for that and told him we wanted to go the Anemurium. He told us that was too late in the day for that and to be honest, in hindsight he was right.

Right, dinner than. Adjacent to or perhaps part of the hotel was a fish restaurant. I’m not that keen on fish, but we had little choice. It was bitterly cold in the room and immediately a heater was pulled out of somewhere and put under the table. After that the lid of the freezer was opened and we were to pick out the fish we wanted to eat. Well, I’m a fish-dummy, so we pointed at a fish in the hope it would be edible.

After a while we got some bread, which I suspected to be out of date, and beer and a big plate with a salad. That was nice though and the fish that was brought in a bit later was nice (as fish can get) as well. After dinner we again got a free drink and after that we went to our room.

Ilke had thought up the plan to take another route back tomorrow, but being warned yesterday I took a close look at the map and we found out, that this detour would take at least 250km. Taking in consideration that in the mountains a riding speed of an average of 35km/h was tops, I wasn’t too thrilled about the idea. And after an even better look I saw that we had to cross a couple of passes at about 1600 – 1800mtrs. That did it. Without proper clothing for the cold, no tools etc. I told Ilke I didn’t want to go that way. And after a while she agreed. Taking the same way back was not really what we wanted, but there was no other way. Well, at least we first could visit Anemurium.

Wednesday, January 4^th 2006 – Well, the decision was taken and it was a good thing we had taken this one, because, after we had packed and got a farewell drink (tea) Ilke’s bike wouldn’t start. I tried running with it in gear, but couldn’t get it started. So we asked for help at the reception. They phoned someone and after a couple of minutes a car arrived. The man had brought a start-up battery with him and yes that did the trick. But after the battery was disconnected and the engine turned off, it wouldn’t start on it’s own battery. So, connecting again and starting: no problem. But ……..

This happened a couple of times. The only solution had to be either a new battery or something else. So the hiring company was phoned, everything explained and we got a NO GO on fixing the problem ! Sh**. Ilke decided to go for the solution of 20euro , because she didn’t want to risk, getting stranded somewhere. Thus, we rode to a “garage”, where the battery was cleaned (oxidation) , filled with distilled water and recharged. We got a cup of tea (of course) and waited for half an hour or so. After that everything worked beautifully. After paying the man we were waved goodbye and we rode to Anemurium.

The last bit was a bit off-roadish and when I got to the ruins, I missed Ilke. After waiting for a bit I returned, to find out I rode directly past the entrance, where we had to pay some fee.

Well, it was worth it. Amazing. The remains of a city some 2400- 1600 years old. It's always hard to believe that people have really lived here, with their emotions, their petty grievances, their happy and unhappy times. People have gone to the public baths, sat in the theatre and so on.

After that we continued our way back "home". We stopped in some town to have something to eat (döner kebab) and a drink. As it is often the case in these countries the food came from the place we sat down, but the drinks came from a stall/shop nearby. You see the "waiters" come down the street with your drinks. Somehow it always makes me laugh a bit. The scene was nice and the view was filled with old type motorbikes and old vans and people dressed in all sorts of clothing. Well, being east from Alanya, paying had to be done in the Turkish currency (not in euro's), so I had to go to the bank first.

Back at the hotel we were checked in another room. The people at the reception recognized us as we entered the lobby. Not many tourists with helmets in this time of year, of course. It earned us a "well done" look, though.

Thursday, January 5th 2006 - Today our plans were to go to Side. Not too far from our hotel. Which was a nice thing. Yesterday we had just a bit of rain, but with a speed of 60 – 80km/h raindrups are like needles in your face.

For a full description of what Side is all about follow this link

Finding the old city was a bit hard, but we found it anyway. After parking our bikes (where the attendant again treated us with respect) we strolled through the remains. At one point, we again were accompanied by a man, who told us what was to be seen. Obviously we knew, that there was more to it. As we saw some soldiers approaching, the man suddenly was vanished. So we kept close to these soldiers and did our own touring. But, as we almost reached the exit he reappeared as if he had been with us all the time. Just in time trying to talk us into buying a map etc. We didn’t.

After that we had a drink on a nice terrace, but after a while the sun disappeared and even a bit of rain was felt, so we moved on. Having some time remaining we decide to look for Aspendos, where some nice old Roman remains could be watched. Again finding it was a bit difficult. The maps in and of Turkey are very poor, as are the road signs, And notice that this is the tourist part of the country !!

Like I said, very beautiful. The theater was very well preserved. The other buildings less though. But really worth going to. In the end some people tried to talk us into going to a leather factory. We weren't interested though. Would we be kind enough to change money then. The thing is that Turkey changed their currency and their coins look very much like the € coins. Even more they like us to pay in €. The thing though is that they can't exchange € in their banks. So what they do is, hand you €5 or €10 in coins in exchange for a €bill. The smallest bill I had was €50 though. Not a problem ! And there he came with €50 in coins. Not only does that take an awful lot of space, but is very heavy too. So I refused. Not a problem. Getting some bills from other men, he tried €20. No ! Not a problem ! Try €10 then. Okay, to avoid a scene.

Back to the hotel then. Again a little rain, but it felt like thousands little needles. Luckily I brought a head bandana, which protected me from the worst stings.

Friday, January 6th 2006 - Today we planned a nice route. according to the map along a "green" road. Being warned in the beginning of the week, I studied the map carefully. Right, the first part was nice alright, but the road was just a bit too wide. Luckily I saw the sign to Gündoğmus and knowing the road back from there was quite long I told Ilke we had to go there. Again Ilke thought differently and again she was wrong. Having shown her that her ideas couldn't be met, we took the road to Gündoğmus. The first leg led us over a very bad road, where they were cutting the trees and were widening the road. But after that it got very nice. So nice I'm tempted to say that, maybe with the exception of the tour in Italy to Isola 2000 and beyond, this was the nicest route we have rode !! Many hairpins, beautiful surroundings !

We tried to have a coffee in Gündoğmus, but didn't see a proper café. Ilke thought she had seen one, but that was a real "coffee-house" where only men are allowed. She didn't know that. Then we rode over and along the market, where we got all kinds of curious, but also friendly, looks of the locals. Some tried to help us with ..... ? We don't know and I think they didn't either. Finding the proper way out of the town was a bit difficult, but we found it. Again a beautiful road back to the hotel. But before we got there it started to rain and we fled into a "restaurant".

Saturday,