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I dedicate this page to the proud people of occupied Tibet, hoping it may help in any way, to let the world see that Tibet should be a free country, with his Holy Highness the Dalai Lama back at his rightful place in Lhasa.

This page is also made for (in random order !) : Joyce, Simon, Jiska, Mike, Peter, Niels, Hans, Werner, Sandra, Hans, Angelina, the crew in the follow up van and "Happy", who's contribution to this trip made it an unforgettable one !

In July and August of 2006 I made a trip in Tibet/China on a motorbike. This was organized by a Dutch organization called "motortrails".  This is my report on that trip.

As always: double click on the picture for the bigger one. Pictures are resized for full screen 17 inch screens. In the end a slide show will be provided.

Thursday, July 20th - We started off at Lanzhou. Why there ? Well, because it's hard to rent a motorbike in China and here were some. And beside that we had to take an exam to obtain a Chinese driver's license and here we could do so. So the first day was to get acquainted with the bike (s) and take the exam. Well, the latter is a farce. First we were told that traffic in China. and this was stressed, drives on the right side of the road. Nothing new there. Second, we had to keep to the speed limit. Which was a bit hard to do, since none of the bikes had a working speedometer. And third, we had to have some knowledge of traffic signs. So some copies were handed out and we had to remember the meaning. Since four of the signs were about a corner left/right and going up/down a hill, this wasn't hard to do. After a while we had passed and we got a Chinese license. Funny, because of some the license had already been issued a year ago and of some the date of entry was not until next month ! However, I am now authorized to ride a motorbike in China for the next 6 years ! The afternoon was spent at "motor alley" were a number of shops were assembled and where some could buy a helmet or other stuff they would require for the next weeks.

Friday, July 21st - Finally ! After days of desperate waiting, we were on our bikes. riding ! First we had to get some petrol and get out of Lanzhou. This was fun. I like riding in city traffic and this was all the more fun, because this bike was light to handle. Less fun was the fact that it was raining.

But, after a while we were really on the road to Xiahe. At first the road was reasonably okay, but after a while it got worse and the first signs of going off-road showed up. The scenery also changed, but here for the better. We made some stops to have a snack or something to drink and in a small village we stopped for lunch. This was the first time we were confronted with the curiosity of the people. As soon as we had parked the bikes, people from everywhere came over to have a look (and often more than that) at the bikes and it's "owners" .

After lunch back on the bikes for the rest of the trip. It led through beautiful landscapes and soon the first Buddhist signs showed. For example the bridges with the prayer flags. Unfortunately, as you can see on one of the pictures, the Chinese are opening up access to "Tibet", so called to bring prosperity to the people, and nature isn't spared to do so. 

Saturday, July 22nd - Bummer ! We had to stay here in Xiahe. Why, only after one day of traveling ? Well, to get used to the high altitude. So, there was nothing more to do than having breakfast and after that visiting a monastery. A popular one by the looks of the amount of (Chinese) tourists.

I followed our guide for a while but decided to go my own way (having seen a lot of monasteries already on my previous trips). That led me to the "suburbs" and the real Tibetan people. Following them I walked around Xiahe and it brought me to some places where people said prayers to all kinds of things. Sometimes to a brick in a wall, where nothing special was to be seen. Anyway, it was away from the tourist tracks and that's what counts.

After a while I returned to the village centre, because we had said we meet at a certain time for lunch. And after that there would be time to visit a monastery for nuns. Being a bit early I found a spot where I could observe people and take some pictures.

After lunch my bowels got upset and I stayed behind. I returned to the hotel room and waited until I felt a bit better. When I then returned to the street the others were already coming back, so, together with Jiska, I took a stroll down the road and had a nice talk.

After dinner, there wasn't much to do and we returned to the hotel for a good night's rest. We had to get up early next day. And when I say "early" , I mean "early" ! (i.e. 6 am)

Sunday, July 23rd - Yippee, back on the bike ! Not very far today, but a great deal off road. Although, these were the plans. But things turned otherwise.

We got of to a difficult start. One bike wouldn't start properly and the other one was leaking petrol. The crew had some early morning work to do. Unnecessary to say that attracted quite a crowd.

But after a while they managed to get things done and we were on our way.

After a short trip we found ourselves on the banks of a small river. What to do, since there was quite a current and not really visible how deep it was. One of the crew then waded into the river to find out whether it was crossable. The first part was not too difficult, but the second part was or seemed to be. We decided to give it a try. Unfortunately within minutes three of us went under (including me and my camera !!!!) and we had to change strategy. The rest of the group now were helped. They had to ride, but the bikes were steadied by 4 of us (who were already wet). That way we all crossed and the crew now faced three bikes that wouldn't start. So they had to try to get them running again. And while we were discussing our further plans (going on would mean we had to cross this river - or another one- several times) - yes- it started to rain again. The decision now was made for us. While we could see the river rising, we decided to go back. So the same procedure (helping each other through the water) was taken again ! Not necessary to mention that we were drenched from the knee down.

Leaving three bikes behind, we then went to the camp. This time no hotel, but tents (and a glass house). Fortunately the sun shone again and we sat in the sun for the afternoon. I had opened every "door" of my camera and placed it in the sun, so the water that had gotten inside, maybe would evaporated.

That evening we had a nice dinner in a large glass house and not too late we went to bed (with our clothes on !)

Only pictures of this morning today, because the camera had taken some water. The other pictures thanks to Warner Boer and Peter Martha

Monday, July 24th - Starting the day was with ice on our saddles. Not to my surprise, because I found the night extremely cold. Even with my motor clothing on, I couldn't get warm during the night. On the bright side: the night sky was spectacular !

Well, with a bad night's rest I saddled up for today. And again, after 5 minutes the rain started to fall again. That much, that we agreed upon seeking shelter in the nearest cave or village. It turned out to be a couple of houses, where we were welcomed, had a cup of tea and warmed our bones by the fire. At this point Joyce ,our tour guide, was already that sick that she took place in the follow up van, as did one of the group, probably he suffered from high altitude sickness. That again put a strain on the crew, because they now had to ride a bike. On this stretch the first collision occurred. Not knowing what road to take the first man stopped and the second couldn't avoid him fully and slid passed him, touching him by the elbow. Both were relatively unharmed, but one of the bikes needed attention.

The weather then changed for the better and we made good progress. Until, we again had to cross a little river. This time less deep and all of us crossed without incidents/accidents. However one of us was exhausted and wanted to return to the follow-up van. This was easier said than done, because the van could not follow us off road and waited somewhere on the road. So, she was transported to the van and coming back we were told to all join the van for drinks and to go from there on the main road for a place to have lunch. Now we were really off road.  But I enjoyed it !!!!

We had lunch in some village, which took some time. After that, we had to fuel again and were just about ready doing that as a terrible (thunder) storm and rainfall hit us. Now, we could hide at this petrol station, but had we been 10 minutes earlier.........

The last part to Labrang was "tarmac" so fairly easy.

pictures, thanks to Warner Boer.

Tuesday, July 25th - This morning we went to one of the two local monasteries of Labrang. Why two ? Well, this place is on the border of two provinces and each of the monasteries belongs to one of these provinces. So, first we went to one of them. here the monks were preparing for a coming festival. We went inside and had a look around. After that "Happy" (our guide for a couple of days) introduced us to a monk who showed his "room" (divided in a prayer room, a bedroom and a living room).

Next we went to a cavern. This was the place where in the past a monk killed a tiger and started the building of one of the monasteries. Obviously this now was a holy place.

Not allowed to ride the bike on our own, we decided to take a ride together. So, in the afternoon we gathered and took off. After 5 minutes or so the weather changed and thunderstorms were gathering and a little rain started to fall. What to do ? Well, we decided to ride on for a while. Unfortunately the road got worse and worse and after a while there were only very narrow paths and grassland. As again we decided what to do, since some had very much difficulties riding now, it started to rain heavier. We then decided to turn back, because of the tracks that were already difficult in the dry, now would become all but impassable. And just when we were almost back at the hotel someone fell off the bike. Figures.

Within 5 minutes after our return, the sun emerged behind the clouds again and the rest of the afternoon was hot and sunny ! The rest of the afternoon was spent in the sun or elsewhere. I, for instance, looked for the inevitable cyber café.

Pictures, thanks to Warner Boer.

Wednesday, July 26th - A "funny" start of the day today. We weren't allowed to leave the parking site. We had parked the bikes behind the hotel, which was closed with a gate and this morning the gatekeeper refused to open it. Only for €10 per bike he would. This is an outrageous amount by Chinese standards. So a heavy discussion started which ended in paying €6 all together, which then was thrown on the ground in anger.

But again I had the time of my life off road. Although it started somewhat sad, because one of the group hit a pig within 5 minutes after the start and fell. Fortunately nothing seriously, but nevertheless not a nice way to start the day. Riding a bit behind her - and at the end of the line - I then "spurred" my bike to more speed to warn Joyce. So with a considerable speed I rode over this hardened path. Yippee !

After that Joyce tried to find her way through a marshland to a small pass over the hills. But as we moved on, the land became wetter and wetter, so we had to turn back. But now we got in, I don't know what to call it, a sort of ditch like, grassy land, which took all our effort to get out off. Again I managed fairly easily and obviously had the time of my life (after succeeding). As we all got out and had a drink (we had lost a considerable amount of fluid), Mike found out he had forgotten his sunglasses at a ditch he had gotten into. He rode back and wonder: he found it !

After that we moved on, to get to a place where the soil was a kind of clayey soil, with a thin layer of water on top of it : very very icy (like). So, when one turned the bike, the others braked and just in front of Mike and me, Jiska lost control of her bike and slammed into Simon. She fell down and laid still for a few minutes. This was quite a scare. But luckily, she got up after a while. A bit bruised of course, but nothing broken or otherwise seriously damaged. Now we had to pass this, which gave us something to do. The last part was going up a hill and after that there was "tarmac" again. Shame.

We stopped at a place where a considerable amount of "stupa's" stood and tent like constructions made of flags, whereas each flag stood for a person, who had died. Pretty impressive.

We ended the day at Hong Yuan, in what looked like a nice hotel. But in China things are not always what they seem. Hotels for instance look really nice on the outside, but inside they're full of surprises. It is no exception when a hotel of one year old, already is falling apart. The same goes for the road. Fully tarmaced last year, without maintenance, now is full of holes. But we could get a massage for €5 and that was really nice.

That evening after dinner in a restaurant where the personal was so enthusiastic of having us, they had sent for a (professional) photographer who then made pictures of us with all the personal. And when we returned afterwards, after having found no place to have a beer (or soda), they again greeted us with giggles and laughs.

Pictures, thanks to Warner Boer and Peter martha.

Thursday, July 27th - IT IS WORKING AGAIN !!   MY CAMERA IS !!   OH WONDER !!

Today "tarmac" only, which was a bit of a drag. However it turned out that not everybody is as skillful as I had thought. Turning smooth corners was not everybody's piece of cake. I know now that, with all the motor holidays I had, I had gathered quite an amount of experience. It wasn't all that bad, but I had thought it otherwise.

The trip was through a nice scenery (mountains and rivers ), but not that different to certain parts in Europe. Only the man made things reminded of the part of the world we were in. Houses, prayer flags and stuff like that. But the weather was nice and we enjoyed the ride.

Today the yaks were abundantly present, as you can see. This was not entirely without danger. luckily they moved quite slowly, but when they had set their mind on crossing the road, you had better be careful. Another special thing today were the "road maintenance sweepers", as I call them. Riding on a bike and sometimes busy sweeping the road, all alone, in the middle of nowhere !

With lunch we made some dough balls, special for Tibetans. A bit dry, but the taste was rather good (chocolate like). And the scenery was nice as well, at a tent camp. Not the usual "restaurant".

After that we rode on and stopped several times for a drink or a bite.

Friday, July 28th - Another beautiful day on the road. The weather was good, but the scenery was even better. Prayer flags, small bridges, nice and beautiful people. What more can you wish for. And whenever a dull moment is trying to slip in, there's always Joyce. Like the Tibetan people, she is always curious after things and trying stuff out. As you can see in the pictures.

We ended the day in Danba , where we were supposed to sleep with a local Tibetan family. However, this turned out to be not quite the truth. First we made contact in the city and after a while they came to show how to get to the place. That meant going up a mountain with a lot of hairpins and the last bit was terribly off road. Not too bad for us, but the follow up van had more trouble following us. Then we had to walk for a couple of 100mtrs. Not a smooth path, but climbing, ascending, descending, dodging pigs and other stuff. To find out that it wasn't really a family house, but more of a Tibetan style lodging. That became all the more obvious when, after a while, a busload of Chinese tourists walked in.

That night we had enormous fun, singing, karaoke-ing, dancing etc. Warner and I underwent a local ritual of which until now, we don't understand the meaning. And something tells me that's for the better.

Saturday, July 29th - Another day of early rising in the morning. Not too my surprise I didn't have a hangover, because yesterday the "rice whine" had found it's way down my throat very easily. So after breakfast and the brushing of the teeth, we were on our way again. And, again, within 5 minutes someone hit an animal (sheep or goat) and fell off the bike. And again nothing too serious, although walking was a bit hard. Luckily you don't need a lot of walking, riding a bike ! But it sharpened our senses. 

The rest of the day we followed a river, with icy blue water, through  beautiful surroundings (again). A bit less Tibetan (lack of buildings etc.), but very nice. We went over a couple of mountain passes today. That's a bit funny because you're not really aware of the height. We're already high and then you go even higher.

After riding in beautiful weather during most of the day, things started to change in the late afternoon. Dark clouds were gathering and every once and a while you could see the lightning in the mountains. But luckily enough we didn't get rain. We ended today at Tagong, where they are building a new monastery. Not to my taste as far as I can tell on this moment. Too shiny, too much "there".  

Pity, we will miss the festival, because that will not be for a fortnight.

Today we had our first flat (tyre) ! (not the last one by the way)

Sunday, July 30th -

No riding today and so there wasn't more to do than visit the old and new monastery. First we went to the new one. This was a very strange place. Not anything like the other ones I've seen. It turned out this wasn't a monastery after all, but a "Stupa". So, we didn't waste much time here. Then we had a drink and slowly walked to the old monastery, only to see some movement in the distance. Monks practicing for the upcoming festival. Obviously we walked over there and shot some pictures. They were all but finished unfortunately

.

After lunch at "Sally's" we then visited the old monastery, which was much better. Inside the main building the monks had gathered and we shot some nice pictures there. But again, you can't spend an entire afternoon in such a place and we sat ourselves down at the steps, only to be addressed by a monk, who spoke some English. We had a nice conversation and it turned out he already had contact with someone in the Netherlands through e-mail. Amazing ! We talked for about one hour and a half. At a certain point he asked me what I knew about Tibet and I told him, I knew it was "liberated" by the Chinese. He then burst out in laughter and told every monk who was nearby about what I had said ! After exchanging e-mail addresses we then said goodbye and left.

After that we did some shopping (I bought a prayer wheel and a bracelet) and then it was time for a nap and dinner.

Monday, July 31th - Yippee, riding again. Although it meant getting up very early again. First breakfast at "Sally's". As I asked her to buy a toy yak, she had standing there, I got as a gift. One of the horns was broken, but I'd rather have a "broken" one as a gift, then a good one that was bought in a shop. So to me, this yak will be a special reminder of Sally.

Well after breakfast back to the bikes again. Towards Litang ! To me, Litang was to be the highlight of this trip. I had bought this camera especially for these days : working on normal AA batteries and with "video" capability. So I was looking forward to it.

But first a long leg getting there and going over three passes of about 4400 - 4700 mtrs high. Now we could show our skills in riding passes (i.e. curves, hairpins etc.). As it rained again one of the passes was very slippery (sand and oil) and several times I felt the bike slip from under me. But having some experience and in this case a lightweight bike, I was no moment in trouble. But again, you had to stay sharp and therefore this leg was (a bit) demanding. The first rest was at a forestry station where we sat and tried to dry a bit. Some had really cold hands and warmed their gloves on a stove.

After that the weather stayed dry but there still was a lot of moisture in the air. On the other side of the second pass things got a bit better, although the temperature wasn't really high.

As you can see by the following pictures riding was extremely beautiful here.

Well, finding the tent at the camp was made easy because we were expected. As a surprise we all had to sleep in one big tent, which of course is enjoyable enough. On small mattresses and with enough (?) blankets we had to make ourselves at home. Disadvantage : no electric lights ! But soon we were "invaded" by nosey Tibetans, who wanted to know what people had arrived on motorbikes. And it is probably custom to come into the tent and have a look around or just find a place to sit down and watch. A while later some musicians walked in and sang a song. A bit strange at first, but also funny. No need to say most of us went to bed quite early.

Tuesday, August 1st - Well, today would be the day of the start of the festival. So, after breakfast we hurried to the terrain where things would be held. A lot of people were lined up and I walked through the lines to end with a group of monks that looked important. Just as I arrived at the scene the group moved and walked to the grandstand. After the monks walked people with badges and I joined them, only to see how far I would get before I would be picked out. Well, I got all the way ! Nobody asked a question and at the grandstand I was welcomed with the traditional white scarf (a real nice one !) and I could take place !

Having stood there for a while I then was motioned down to the ground and I took place there. No things got warmed up. Chinese policemen (and women) were trying to get all the people in place and a lot of pushing and shuffling began. The first people in line, of which I was one, had to step back behind some invisible line, but since there were a lot people behind us, there was no room. Then the belts were used. Mostly on Tibetan people but on of the policewomen hit me (probably by accident) with the steel part. That made me very angry and looking her right in the eye I told her (in Dutch !) never to hit me again ! Well, this pushing and shuffling went on for quite a while, so I decided to find myself a better place. Which was situated on the other side where the boards of the groups that had passed were standing. Beautiful, right opposite the grandstand and out of the sun. But after a while the groups moved on again and again I had to find a good place. This time between the photographers with a badge (I don't know what it said, but it looked formal). I now had the perfect place for the rest of the morning.

At lunchtime I returned to the tent. I joined Simon and Joyce and we had a look around. After lunch back to the main terrain for the second part of the day. Niels, Peter, Joyce and I tried to find a nice spot, but like this morning we had to relocate frequently. After things had settled down a bit I then spotted a nice place and walked towards it and nobody even tried to stop me. I now had learned how to circumvent the Chinese police !

Well, the horserace was nice but nothing very spectacular. Although in the end the riders made a bit of a mess of it and that made things more funny. But a bit of a disappointment after all.

So, I returned to the tent again and spent the rest of the afternoon sitting on the bike and talking. Later on I decided to give away some of the pictures of the Dalai Lama to the Khampa men, who had their tents next to ours. This was quite a success. They almost ripped them out of my hand and when at a certain point I thought I had given all of a group a picture and had two more left, I gave the last man three pictures, to find out that I had forgotten one. So I told the guy whom I had given three pictures to hand one to the other guy. But no way. They were hidden away !

Just before the sun set there were some spectacular skies. I used this opportunity to make some pictures.

Back at the tent Warner had used his afternoon well, because he had bought stuff to get a light bulb running. It wasn't easy but in the end he succeeded and we now had light so we could play a game of cards or read a bit. This extended our evening nicely.

Wednesday, August 2^nd  - This day would be the horseracing day. So after breakfast and brushing our teeth (washing or showering was not possible these days), it was off to the pitch and trying to play the innocent tourist again. So, whenever a policeman told/shouted/pointed me to go one way, I reluctantly went the other ! And thus, after a lot had happened, there I was, standing in the middle of the pitch, all alone and no-one bothered (whereas in the crowd the people were hit with the belts again and some Tibetan were actually slept away. Which later in the day resulted in heavy rows !

Okay, the place was taken and the camera at the ready. Then the first horseman appeared. With a number (52 or so) on his back and beneath him a somewhat frolicking horse. Then after a while, number 51 appeared, again with a strange way of horse galloping. And after a while number 50. I stayed until 48 and by then I had figured out that this would be a waste of time. So I took a stroll around the pitch to where the contesters were starting. It resulted in taking some nice pictures. But after that ???? Well, back to the tent again. After a while more of the group returned and we enjoyed the warmth of the sun during the afternoon.

That evening getting light in the tent was trickier, because our neighbour had found out we were tapping his electricity. I took the chance later to take some pictures of lit up tents.

After that some of us stayed up late and had a lot of fun (playing cards or otherwise. Especially Simon had the giggles at one point).

Thursday, August 3^rd – Well, like I said, a late night, yesterday night, with lots of beer and in my case something with 46% alcohol. What it was ?????? Today up before the dawn ! 5.30 am !!!!!! It was still dark. Imagine. Breakfast at 6.00 and clearing the saddles from ice (again). Saying goodbye to our cook for the past days (a lovely young lady, who wouldn’t have mind coming along to the Netherlands and get married – just like our other neighbour’s daughter, who’s father twice tried to couple to one of the bachelors in our group ) and off we went. Fuelling first where we had a big surprise: first a flat tyre and second someone who went down ( almost or totally unconscious for a few seconds). A nice way to start the day. 

The first part was a return of the way here and believe it or not: when we reached the forestry station it started to rain again. Well, rain is a big word, but it wasn’t completely dry. After that a couple of passes again, with beautiful sights / sceneries and parts where the speed was the only limit :)

But a long day just the same (about 12 hours). And as real surprise: when we arrived about 7pm the hotel management told Joyce, they knew nothing about reservations. So she had to argue first (with help from one of the crew) and then had to take place in a car in order to check out another hotel. So, after a long and tiresome day we were all glad when we finally could hit the sack.

Today only, there were some complaints about the length and/or the speed with what we (had) travelled. Nothing really serious, but just the same.

Friday, August 4th – One of the last days and certainly not the most exciting one. But there’s no avoiding it, because we have to go to Chengdu.

We ended the day at Yaan at a nice hotel. Simon and I had a luxury suite. The only drawback was that the elevator wouldn’t be working for an hour (elevator electricity saving) and our room was at the 7^th floor ! So, I climbed the stairs three times with the luggage. Again we had the opportunity the have a massage and after I showered (which after the climbing really was necessary) I found my way to the massage salon. Only to find out that I was number four. I had a nice massage from a nice girl, who the other girls tried to talk into giving more than a massage (or was it me they tried to talk that into have more than a massage ?). Anyway I enjoyed it.

We had agreed upon meeting at the restaurant in front of the hotel and when I joined the already present, it turned out that Peter had fallen asleep in a chair on the pavement along the river and “his friends” had put a saucer with some money at his feet, making it look like he was begging. After Peter woke up, he could appreciate the scene and we had a good laugh.

For dinner we had …….. I get the shivers thinking about it still. Chicken head, chicken claws, something grey and rubbery and more unrecognizable stuff. Nobody was really hungry, until ………. A lovely Chinese woman showed us how to eat it. It was merely meant as a soup, so, when you skimmed the liquid only, you had a nice soup or broth.

After dinner I tried to find a cybercafé (which I didn’t), but had a nice stroll along the river border where people sat and had made little campfires. At one point there were a lot of people dancing on a French “bass” song, which looked nice. Later I had a good conversation with Simon and late we turned in.

It is again hot by the way, since we came down from the mountains. The last part I travelled with my bodysuit (hard protection on elbows, breast, back, shoulders and underarm) on only.

Saturday, August 5^th -  The last day on the bike ! The first part was “unpleasant”. Since motorbikes are not allowed on the motorways we had to take the old route, which was nothing more than riding along the motorway over a terrible bad road. Underway there were a lot of places where people were drying corn or peppers or other things. What happened on the picture below, we still don't know !

Joyce had already told us about her last year’s Chengdu experience  (which meant they had really trouble finding the hotel) and she thought it would be better this time. I think hardly. After we had passed “the suburbs” we stopped at a road construction site and somebody was called. It the took at least an hour before we were on the move again. During which period we were surrounded by working people and others. Nice, though.

Then the real thing started : going through city centre ! I had the time of my life ! With traffic moving in and out and honking and “pushing” . Oh what a joy. Since I was the last man today, I tried to keep cars from “entering” our pack and at the same time be visible for the follow up van, which could normally not keep up. So, it was a jungle ! It resulted frequently at tapping at the side window of a car and pointing them back from where they came and stuff like that. Someone called it “aggressive”, but I did only what they tried to do. In my opinion : if you can’t beat, join them. So I applied the same “rules” as they did and NEVER did I get a middle finger or something like that.

At the end of the ride something really Chinese happened. The one who had bought helmets here in China now had to “dispose” of them and so they were given away. In the group stood a little girl with a bike and a basket attached to it. So someone put the helmet in the bike. After a while her mother appeared, saw the helmet, didn’t ask a thing an slammed the little girl in the head. It was only after we had protested her ways that she thought of the possibility of none wrong doing of her child. Did she apologize or something ? Why no ! A lot of smiles and gestures and things were settled.

The last hotel (or rather hostel) was named “Holly’s”. It had a rather nice appearance, although there were a lot of Dutch people there. Later that night we said goodbye to the crew, who would return to Lanzhou the other day. The driver of the van thanked me for my responsibility to them and the group this day in traffic. That was nice to hear.