France

(Dutch version )

From april 25th till may 5th 2003 we went to the South of France, i.e. the rivers Dordogne and Lot area. We are: Ilke, me (myself and I) and our friend from wintersport, Jan.

In the years 1984 to 1991 we went to that region nearly every autumn and it sounded like a good idea to return there. So, we made it so (like my good friend Jean-Luc used to say).

friday, april 25 2003 - Jan had plotted the journey for this first day(s) and we went off at about 10.15 hour. From Doesburg we went to Arnhem and Nijmegen (A12-N325-A325), to Venlo (A 15 - A 76) and Maastricht (A2). As always Maastricht was awfull.

So from Maastricht we went on to Liège (B) and from there to Namur and Dinant. Then into France - Charleville Mezières and Châlons en Champagne (or sur Marne) and we ended the day in Troyes-centre, where we stayed at the "étappe hôtel". That evening we strolled into Troyes, which looked rather nice ! We ate at a kebab-place and ended the night with a cup of coffee and a little rain. (the rain was free, the coffee certainly wasn't !!!)

Today's journey took us about 597kms from home.

The north of France isn't very spectacular to ride in. Long and very straight roads (very good tarmac though). In this period of the year there's not much in the fields but rapeseed, which gives a nice yellow view.

There was a rather funny incident. Somewhere in Belgium Ilke rode up beside me and waved me to the side. At that point the directions weren't all too clear, so I thought that was the reason. After I had stopped I heard her say something about a fire. I asked her where this fire was. Again (I still had the helmet on) she said something about a fire and I asked what about a fire ?. Then I heard her say : "YOU'RE on fire !!" What had happened ? The saddlebag on the exhaustpipe-side had become too hot and was melting. So was the "garage" I had inside. Getting the "fire" out was even difficult, because thanks to a bit of wind, it kept smouldering.

saturday, april 26 - This was a terrible day. We set out to reach Clermont Ferrand, but it rained dreadfully that day. Now I was the only one who had prepared properly and while Ilke and Jan got wet, I on the other hand had, in the morning, put on my rainstuff and stayed dry. (ha, ha). We stopped in Nevers for a cup of coffee, made a swimmingpool of the local bar and decided to stay in Nevers. No way ! All the hotels were "complet". Why ? Maybe it had something to do with the fact that Magny-Cours is near to Nevers. So we rode on and ended the day, after some deliberation, at Moulins in a "formule 1" hotel. Plans were for a nice tour to the Puy de Dôme the next day and we were very near now.

Today we only did some 275 kms, mainly on the mainroads.

sunday, april 27 - Again our expectations didn't come through today. We had planned to get to Cahors (our main goal in France), but .....

We started the day going to the Puy de Dôme, following the route as described in the book mentioned at the bottom of this page. That was really nice. Going up the Puy was exciting: nice tarmac, long curves and plenty of them. At the top we stayed for a cup of . The weather was nice and we enjoyed it. We were on holidays and in no real hurry after all.

Now, following the route was a bit more difficult. We didn't bring a proper map of this region and lost our way. Nevertheless, we had a nice ride. Later on I will try to figure out what route we really took.

We ended the day at Aurillac (at about 5.00 p.m) and found ourselves a nice looking hotel. However, that was closed and wouldn't open up before 06.15 pm. So we sat in the sun and enjoyed the good life.

At 06.15pm we checked in and found ourselves in a beautiful, spacious room. Okay, a bit more expensive, but for €60 (breakfast included) we all thought we had a good deal. For those who want to know the name of the place : Le Square. In the evening we thought to walk into town and have ourselves a meal, but again things turned out differently. There was nothing going on in town. Everything was closed. Only a pizza delivery and a turkisch (or so) take- away were open. We had kebab again. Delicious and in a friendly atmosphere though.

We had beautiful weather today and rode some 325,3 kms

monday, april 28 - Right, after we had a delicious breakfast, we headed for Cahors. From Aurillac we took the N122 to Figeac and from there we followed the D19 to Béduer, Gréalou and Cajarc. From there on the D662 along St. Cirq-Lapopie (a nice little town; crowded though in the summertime) to Vers,and last but not least the D653 to Cahors.

This was a beautiful day. Both the riding as the weather. Especially from Figeac where we first took a wrong turn (due to a "deveation" caused by a fair) and rode the D19 in the opposite direction. After a couple of kilometers we decided that, according to the sun, we were going the wrong way and headed back. This time we found the right direction and enjoyed the ride on the narrow roads along the river Lot.

We ended relatively early in Cahors and had a drink on a terrace. Looked for the right hotel and found it, smack in the centre. Not a very comfortable hotel though, but ...........

That evening we had a nice dinner at a nearby restaurant, where we sat until they closed.

Today we rode just about 169 kms and again we had a beautiful (to be honest: a hot) day. About 28 ºC !

tuesday, april 29 - Today was "memory-day" . We decided to visit the places we had been to all those years.

But first we went to the viewing point at mt. St. Cyr. From there you have a nice view over Cahors.

Back at Cahors we took the D8 to Luzech and Puy l'Evêque. From there a couple of kilometers on the D911, untill we reached Duravel. In the village we took a right turn D58 to Montcabrier. But first we visited the place where we used to stay. Things had changed and not for the better. Well, we continued our tour to Montcabrier, left onto the D673 to St. Martin le Redon and there a right turn to Bonaguil

We sat for a while and had a drink, before we moved on to Cuzorn. Left on the D710 for about 2,5 km and next right on the D162 towards Motagnac. After 6,5 km right on the D150 to la Capelle-Biron and the D150/D53 to Biron. There a beautiful castle there too. Both Bonaguil and Biron are open to the public, by the way.

Following the D53 and the D2 you'll get to Monpazier, what is called a "bastide". All these castles and "bastide" -towns are reminders of the 100 year war (France-England) some centuries ago. We used our lunch in Monpazier in what was beautiful weather. Again we had the luck of not being in the high season, because there was virtually no-one there.

Right, now back on the D53 (!), we continued our trip to Belvès, then left on the D710 (following the signs to La Bugue) and in Siorac-en-Perigord a right turn on the D703 to St-Cyprien. Following the D703 for a couple of kms, we made a right turn onto the D50, to Berbiguères and after some 6,5 kms left onto the D53 to Castelnaud. On this road you'll get nice views of some castles for example "Beynac-et-Cazenac" (on the other side of the river Dordogne) , at Fayrac and again a couple of kms further at Castelnaud.

In Castelnaud straight on, the D57, to St. Cybranet (where I had my first holidays abroad in about 1965 or so !) and the D50 to Domme (normally overcrowded, bur relatively quite now. Of course at least 50% Dutch !). Again we stayed a while shooting the inevitable pictures and enjoying the sun.

At that time we decided to take the fast way back, because it was already getting "late" and we also wanted to look at a yamaha-shop in Cahors.

I don't exactly remember where it happened, but we had some scary moments. I, for instance, misjudged a corner, hit the break too hard and started to slide/drift/slip whatever you name it. So I released the break and hit it again. Now I was sliding the other way. Again I released the break. At this point the speed had decreased enough for me to break more controlled. All the way though I had followed a "straight" line and had the luck that I had enough room, not to get into the soft shoulder or even worse. Jan, too, misjudged a corner and went wide. Luckily there was no oncoming traffic at that time, but had it been so ... !So was I, by the way, when I made my escapade.

All in all we rode some 243,5km.

wednesday, april 30 - This day started not very good. During the night I was awakened by voices and looking out of the window I saw police investigating a car next to the marketplace, which was opposite our hôtel. Not really knowing wether it was allowed to park our bikes in front of the hôtel, I kept watching for a while, but then turned back to bed. A while later I heard the sound of a bigger car, looked out the window and saw a towing-truck. The car was being removed.

In the morning I said something to Jan about last night and he stormed out of the room. He had seen that people were lifted up his bike and moving it out of the way. They were market people and obviously the bike had stand in their way. When I watched what was going on, I thought my bike had become somewhat slimmer and asked Jan wether my bags were still on my bike. They weren't ! S***

So the next thing to do was to go and visit the local police station. Well we had done that in La Caruna (Spain), in Cardiff and why not now here in Cahors. It took us a while, but not as long as we feared.

I wasn't that upset that I didn't want to ride that day anymore, thus after a nice cup of coffee at a terrace, we mounted our bikes and went off again.

Today we had planned for a route south of Cahors. It came out of one the brochures we got at the tourist office. But before you follow this route I should warn you: you MUST have a very detailed map of this area. 1:150.00 is just about right, but 1:100.00 would be better !! So after the dealy we hit the road and went to the N20 towards Montauban, but soon left it for the D7 to La Bastide Marnac, next the D67 to Tres Poux Rassiels and left on the D27 to Les Salles and Villesèque. Then right the D656 to Sauzet. Just before Sauzet turn left onto the D185 towards Bagat en Quercy and the D653. There turn right to Montcuq. Just before Montcuq you turn right on the D28 to Roland and Le Trepadou. And arriving at the D23 you turn left to Melmontet. Then left again the D4 to Montcuq. Now, going through Montcuq you follow the signs D55 to St. Cyprien. Next left on the D7. Follow that road approx. 2 km and turn right on the D55 to Ste. Alauzie. There you try to find the D74 to Castelnau-Montratier. Ride through Castelnau and turn left on the D26 to Fontaines and there right to Montdoumerc. If you have done it right you've crossed the N20 and went over the A20. So you're now entering the second tour. In Montdourmec try to trun left and look for either the D10 or the D47 (left again) to Lalbenque. From there the D19 to Bach and Varaire. Just after Varaire right on the D55 to Beauregard and Laramière and next left to Promilhanes. In Promilhanes you follow the D84 to Limogne en Quercy, which is left on the D911. Here we left the route because of the time we had lost on the way, searching and sheltering for an enormous shower , accompanied by heavy windgusts and rainfall. So we went straight on to Cahors.

We rode 196km today.

And apart from this shower, we had nice weather.

thursday, may 1 - Today was moving day again. We had figured out a route, but didn't really know where we would end, so we gave it a go.

This route lead us in the end to Guéret. We began by following the N20 to Brive and from there the N89 to Tulle. Now, in Tulle we looked for the N120 to Argentat (going south) and followed the N120 for a couple of kilometers before we turned left on the D978 to Gimel (les Cascades). From there we took the D26 (north) to Corrèze. Following the D26 we came to the D940 and turned left to Treignac / Eymoutiers. The weather was beautiful and we had a pick-nick at Lac de Vassivière, where Jan had some fond (juvenile) memories.

From there we followed the road along the lake (northbound) and took the D8 to Royère and next to Bourganeuf. In Bourganeuf finally the signs for Guéret, the D940. I must say that it was a beautiful, sometimes magnificent ride (300,4 km). Today the "hotel premiere classe" had its turn .

friday, may 2 -- Okay, today Orléans was our goal. After having some difficulties getting away from the industrial area (where most of these cheaper hotels are located), we followed our way home. We took the D6 to Bonnet en Aigurande and from there the D990 to Châteauroux. From there the D956 towards Valencay and Selles and the N76 to St. Aignan . Next the D140 to Blere and Montlouie. Then the D751 to Blois and Orléans.

The day started with nice weather and the sun shone. But later on clouds moved in and a wind started to blow and yes, as we reached Blois it started to rain. Luckily we were in time to make some pictures of Blois. Blois

(a close up, click for full picture)

Then we drove on, but after a while it seemed we were about as fast as the rain, so Jan suggested to look for shelter and find out wether the rain would pass us. A busstop-shelter did some nice work and yes, after a while the sly started to clear up again and we could ride on in reasonable nice weather, although there was and remained a lot of wind.

Looking for the hôtel we rode by a Hondashop, but were too late to take the exit, so I decided to return there later that day. So after we checked in and put the bagage in the room, Ilke and I tried to find the shop. Well, that was easier said than done. First of all, I took one exit to early and we endend up seeing the shop allright, but unreachable. Okay, back to the mainroad then. Oops, no way José. We had to go all the way through the centre to get back on the road leading to the hôtel. Knowing where the shop was, it was easy to take the right exit. We looked around and I bought a new summerjacket. Back to the hôtel you would say. Pity. It was a bit like in the song by the Eagles - Hotel California: you can check any time you like, but you can never leave- no way to enter the mainroad from this point and- guess what- yep, we had to do the whole tour again, smack through city-centre ! Well, the weather was nice again, so we enjoyed the ride.

We stayed in a "Nuit hôtel", which was rather nice.

Today we rode 345,9 km

saturday, may 3 - We had a good night's rest and were up early. After a nice breakfast,we started on our tour for today towards Verdun.

From Orléans-S, we headed towards the centre (!) and from there we took the N60 (Chateauneuf / Fontainebleau). After some 5kms the N152 to Pithiviers and Malesherbes. There a few kms on the A5 (Fontainebleau) and the D140 to Milly le Fôret and Melun. In Melun the N36 to Meaux and after some 50 kms the A4 (Reims). After 16 kms a right turn (to Châlons en Champagne) on the D407 and immediately on the D402 to Charly. In Charly then the D15 to Chateau Thierry and there the RD980 to Dormans and Reims. In Reims the N44 to Verdun, but after 6 kms the RD931 and the N3 to Verdun.

Again the weather treated us very nice. It was hot and boring. The north of France has very straight roads and we did all kinds of things to make the ride a bit more interesting (for instance: how fast can this bike go; or how manouvrable is it ?) . Near Reims it gets more interesting, but now the wineranks were bare. So, in autumn it will be nicer. Very colourful.

We stayed at a "Formule 1 hotel"

Today we rode 408,3 km

sunday, may 4 - We had decided to go along the river Musel on our way home. It ought to be nice, with all winding roads (green on the map= beautiful). Okay, the roads are nice, and so is the scenery (later in time again), but oh so boring. Beautiful tarmac, nice wide roads, nice wide curves - BORING !! The weather wasn't very helpful either, because it was HOT again !

At first we sat at a terrace, amongst scores of motorbikes, for which Cochem is famous. From Germany, but also from Holland people drive over here during the weekend and maybe do some racing at the Nürnburgring, not too far from here. After the drink we sought a hotel. Ilke had spotted one across the river and so we looked for it. Ont he way we were flagged down by someone. At first we gave it no notice, but as the hotel we looked for was fully booked, we remembered the other one. After a chat with the owner, Ilke brought down the price (now €90 for the three of us). It was a lovely (though for us, this trip, expensive) hotel. Unfortunately I don't remember the name. But maybe Jan will know. It had a perfect room. Spacious. We went to the centre during the evening for a drink and a nice meal. Most of the tourists had gone now. But the weather was still perfect.

Right then, the route we took : From Verdun we took the N3 towards Etain and from there the D906 to Briey. Next the D57 to Hayange (/ Thionville) . On the eastbound city roundabout we followed the N153 to Trier (Germany) and changing on the 419 to Trier. At Trier we tried to get the 53 along the river Musel (leading along Ehrang ; Trittenheim; Bernkastel;Traben Trarbach; Marienburg and Alf). Just before reaching Cochem the 49 along the other side of the river. We reached Cochem after some 311 kms. (Quite early so we could enjoy the sun, the drinks and the people)

monday, may 5 - And so, the last day of our journey arrived already. As we woke up we saw that, again, we had smashing weather. We took our time with breakfast and making pictures of the ever in sight, castle. Then we went on our way and had our first stop in Monschau. For the non- German or Dutch readers this will not mean a lot, but this is a well known village in the Eifel. From here you can ride some very nice routes (the locals aren't very happy with this though, because in nice weather hundreds of bikes can gether here and let their engines roar). Well, after Monschau, it was back to the good old Netherlands. Jan went to his family in Nijmegen, so we said goodbye on a parkingplace in the vicinity.

This was the end of a perfect holiday. We all had the same opinion about that. Next ??? Well, a tour around the Baltic sea has come up (Germany, Poland, Republic of Russia, Lithuania ,Latvia, Estonia, Republic of Russia, Finland, Sweden. Or part of it with the ferry. We'll see).

Today still 370 kms and in all 3540 kms !

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What did we use in preparation of and during our trip:

maps : Michelin - carte routiere et touristique 989 (2001) scale 1: 1.000.000

Michelin - 336 local (Gers,Lot-et-Garonne) scale 1: 150.000

Michelin - 337 local (Lot,- Tarn et-Garonne ) scale 1: 150.000

Books : "Frankreich, edition unterwegs" Band 2 - by Andreas Seiler und Andreas Schlüter - Motorbuchverlag ISBN 3-613-01882-9

Hotels : Étap hôtel - Troyes

Formule 1 - Moulins ; Verdun

Hotel premiere classe - Guéret

Nuit d' Hôtel - Orléans

Le Square - Aurillac

La Paix - Cahors ( 3 nights)

Photographs made with Canon pro90IS. Of course they are comprised and I admit a few are a bit enhanced or some disturbing elements are taken out (Bonaguil for instance. Compare the two pictures)). But overall, wysiwyg.

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